You’ll notice that there are no songs that start “I love Paris in November when it’s freezing and raining and I’m accompanied by two sick, whiny kids… ” There’s a good reason for that.
Paris was fantastic. Paris was awful. Paris was tons of fun. Paris was an exercise in torture. We had a great time. We had a lot of tears. Not all of them were mine. Let’s get to the pics, shall we?
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When you see a picture like this, know the photographer had to climb 300 steps to get it. Or, in this case, 300 steps while dragging an indignant four-year-old behind him.
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We started our journey at 3:30, only a half hour late. After a few stressful wrong turns on the way to the airport, we sailed through check in and security and got to the gate just in time to start boarding. So far, so good.
We survived the Paris metro with children, luggage, and a stroller and found our apartment building. Climbed 3 flights of spiral stairs with previously mentioned children and luggage to find out we’re on the wrong side of the building – back down and up another 3 flights and finally we were “home”.
We ate (a very buttery) lunch, crashed for a couple of hours, then went out exploring. Bought necessities like pain au chocolat and diapers, went home to read our guidebooks and plan the next big day. Discovered (now that we had napped and were capable of actually seeing these things) that the entire apartment was white. White couches. White rug. White upholstered dining room chairs. White bedding and towels. White white white. Did I mention we brought the kids on this trip?
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Who needs the Louvre? Paris has playgrounds everywhere. As far as the kids were concerned, we should have just spent the week bouncing from one park to the next. (The fact that we can do that here, for free, was completely lost on them.) Gotta love this one, though. Location location location.
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Day one we dragged ourselves out into the cold and walked straight to Notre Dame. Violet has not seen the Disney movie, but she has read the book and was determined to climb to the top of the belfry to look for Quasimodo and the gargoyles. I volunteered to keep Jonas company down on the ground, and we hung out and ate bread and cheese and fed some pigeons while they went on their hunchback hunt. (In case any of you considering climbing the 300 stairs to find him, I will just tell you this now – he’s not up there. And it can be a bit of a disappointment, no matter how well you were prepped. Also? The gargoyles don’t actually talk or move around or anything. I know, I know. Bummer.)
After the church we walked along the Seine till we found a playground and outdoor sculpture garden. Our guidebook specifically said it was ok for kids to touch/climb on the sculptures, so Violet made the most of it –
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“I just LOVE art!”
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After absorbing all that culture we decided the only thing to do was walk down the Champs Elysees and eat chocolate and shop. One can’t live off art alone.
A candy shop, a bakery, and the Disney Store later we stumbled upon a winter wonderland.
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Maybe my favorite part of the trip. We came back three times.
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We had the Arc behind us, the Concorde in front, and the streets were lined with little lit-up booths selling stuff from all over the world. Jewelry and hand knits and those little nesting dolls and incredibly expensive hot chocolate. I bought the kids a gummy worm that had to be three feet long (and cost me five bucks. We won’t talk about that.) Some were still setting up, so I guess it was day one of the Christmas market. It was beautiful. The kids loved the lights, loved the (overpriced) candy, loved the big slide they had set up there. It was magic.
We traveled on Wednesdays, and had six full days in Paris in between. We went to the Louvre, the Musee d’ Orsay, the Pompidou center, and one magical afternoon I went to the Musee Picasso alone. (ALONE! Man, it was sweeeeeet.) We went to the Jardin d’ Acclimation (Paris’s oldes amusement park – some little rides, lots of playgrounds, some animals, lots of junk food.) and the Cite des Enfants (kid’s museum), both of which I would highly, HIGHLY recommend if you are in the city with kids. We exposed the kids to lots of art, some that made them sad –
Dat’s a sad, sad man! I make a sad face like dat sad man.
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Some that made them cross-eyed –
This photo is in focus, it’s the painting that’s blurry. When asked how it made her feel, Violet answered…
… It feels like my eyes are like this! (We have a video of this conversation that’s better than the pictures, but I have enough going on here that dealing with YouTube is just not going to happen today. Maybe this weekend I’ll have a post of videos.)
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We took a ride on the world’s most expensive (but possibly most beautiful) Ferris wheel –
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No, I can’t explain the face Jonas is making here.
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We acted like smartasses out in public –
It took three tries before I got a shot of both of them doing this at the same time. How hard is it to put your face in your hand and hold still?
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We ate so many ham and cheese crepes, ham and cheese baguettes, ham and cheese quiches that I have banned pork products from the house until Christmas. (No pictures of the ham and cheese fest, thankfully. I’m not sure I could even look a baguette in the face right now.)
We consumed mass quantities of Nutella, (or, in Jonas-ese, “Peanutella”) pain au chocolat, chocolate mousse, hot chocolate, chocolate caramels, chocolate tarts, and chocolate cake. (I have no pictures of this, either, but only because it was all devoured too quickly to capture on film. Mmmmm, chocolate.)
We burned off all the cheese, chocolate, and butter by walking all over town. Never have I walked so far. We also did crazy things like decide that the line for the elevator is too long, so we’ll just WALK UP THE STAIRS ON THE EIFFEL TOWER. Yeah.
Here we are, all smily and happy because we haven’t gotten to the tower yet. After the climb we looked a lot less peppy.
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We walked up and down the Champs Elysees, trying in vain to get a picture of ourselves with the Arc behind us (I’m using the words “we” and “ourselves”, but I’m talking about Joe. He took my Boobah out in the middle of the busiest road in Paris (there’s a little median he was standing on – perfectly safe, I’m sure) to try and get a picture of them with the Arc de Triomphe behind them. Unfortunately, he failed to consider the sheer size of their giant heads…. )
It’s back there. No really, it’s right there!
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He finally gave up and took these two from the side of the street (you know, the sidewalk? Crazy, I know.) and I think they are the best pics of kids in front of famous stuff we’ve taken so far…
Things to note: the Arc de Triomphe in the background, just how much traffic there is on that road that Joe was just standing in the middle of with my baby, Violet’s hat that we had to go out and buy her after she lost the one we packed. We found it when we got home – still in the car in long term parking.
Things to note: Arc de Triomphe, cold red nose, fabulous soft hand-knit hat. Nice that someone appreciates the stuff I make for them.
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The verdict: Paris is a great city for kids. There are parks everywhere. There are museums just for kids. The food is kid-friendly (unlike, say, Germany – where my kids were like “Sauer-WHAT?”), the Eiffel tower is thrilling, the city is clean, the people are friendly. You get plenty of opportunities to take pictures of your kids in front of famous landmarks (good for blogging purposes.)
Stroller in Paris – kind of a pain in the butt, but oh so necessary for a two year old who still takes two hour naps every afternoon.
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The verdict, part deux: Spending thousands of dollars to take small children to Paris is crazy. When we were at a park they were having tons of fun. When we tried to see some more grown-up stuff we got whining, crying, and “I’m all museumed OUT! Let’s GO!” They loved the children’s museum, hated walking along the Seine (well, it was kind of cold). Basically, they had fun when we were doing stuff we could do at home for free (park? coloring? eating nutella? Why did we fly to a different country for this?) and were huge pains in my butt when we tried to see/do anything that we could only see/do there. In the end, we had fun…. but have decided to cancel our trip to Prague. Maybe Lego-Land is the way to go instead. 😉
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On the other hand – surely all the expense and aggravation was worth it for this photo alone. Forget those Arc ones, this is the winner for “stick the kids in front of something famous and take a picture.” Can you say Christmas cards?
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Man, I could go for a chocolate crepe right about now….